Traveling to Peru and Machu Picchu | Family Travel
Sharing tips and information as you plan your family trip to Peru
This is a long post with a lot of information. Here is a Table of Contents in case you want to skip around!
There are no words to describe this incredible county so my focus to explain our travel experience since it was our first time in South America and there was a learning curve. Hopefully sharing our experiences can help your trip go a little smoother.
A little history…
On the Western side of South America, Peru known for its rich history, colorful textiles and inviting culture. From hustling cities to quiet villages, Peru has so much to explore, including beaches, mountains and historical sites. Known for its Inca residents in the 1500s, Peru’s history runs deep with invention, innovation and creativity.
Truthfully, words not do this magical country justice. The peaks of the Andes are awe-inspiring, snow capped and sharp peaks and the historical sites of the Inca Civilization are well preserved and truly mind-blowing in their size and creation. Peru is a place you could spend weeks, if not months, exploring.
But we only had a week, so here’s how we made the most of it.
If Machu Picchu is your destination, you will likely first stop in Cusco. This city is filled with beautiful architecture, historical Incan sites and the true Peruvian culture all around, not to mention great food at every turn.
Cusco is an UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is a sprawling area that reaches altitude heights of over 11,000 feet. So it takes time to acclimate to the altitude. Trust me you will need to spend a couple of days here to adjust. I’ve included some high altitude tips in this blog post—-keep them handy because it is tough going from sea level to 11,000 feet overnight.
For this trip, like our Ecuador/Galapagos trip, we used Adventure Life Travel to set up our adventure. Peru is also a South American country that requires that tourists have a guide with them at all times while visiting any historical site.
We had the same guide all week and a little further down, I’ll share why that was ideal.
Traveling to Peru in a pandemic
We did travel to Peru in the summer of 2021, while the pandemic was still very much a concern. Unlike Ecuador, vaccines were not rolling out smoothly and at the time we were there, only the senior citizens and the immune-compromised were able to receive a vaccine. Peru did not prioritize those in the tourism industry such as guides and drivers to get the vaccine early. Needless to say, considering their economic status, weak medical system and unstable government, concerns were high and safety measures stressed.
At the time of our arrival, negative COVID tests were required (even if you are vaccinated) to enter the country. As we all know, things are ever-changing with this never-ending pandemic, so be sure to check updated rules before you travel. A great source is the US Embassy website for Peru.
Is Lima before Cusco in your plans?
If you are heading to Cusco, you may be making a quick stop in Lima. If that is the case, esp if your flight is less than 24 hours apart, we recommend staying at a hotel directly across from the airport. You can just walk back and forth saving you time and money. Lima, as mentioned before, is a huge city and if you stay in the city and have an early morning flight, you will be fighting lots of traffic. The hotels have restaurants on site and are certainly suitable for a one night stay. We stayed at the Wyndham Costa del Sol. Our room was clean and spacious, no problems. We did find a funny smell in the hallways and the restaurant was par at best. Avoid the pizza.
The next morning we flew to Cusco.
Meeting our guide in Cusco
Our guide met us at the airport and was with us the entire trip. This proved to be ideal because she truly got to know us, our preferences, style and pace of traveling. In addition, we grew more comfortable with her to ask questions, make requests and converse naturally as the week went on. We quickly found a rhythm with each other and our time together was very relaxed and personal.
Perhaps because of the pandemic, we had a private tour all week.
Each day she would brief us on our activities and schedule, help us find restaurants and advise us how to prepare for the day (ie: gear, clothes, shoes, etc). She was very thorough in her information so we felt excited and ready for each new day.
Peru is desperate for visitors, in the case of our guide, we were her only tourists in over 18 months and talking with her recently, it turns out, we were her only ones this year so far. It’s a heartbreaking situation.
That being said, the solicitors and vendors are hungry for business so they will approach you quite often. Having a guide with you keeps them at bay. In Spanish, she can tell them, no thank you in a much more firm and direct way.
The best time to travel to Peru
Like Ecuador, it is best to visit Peru in the dry season or their Winter. That equates to May to August, possibly early September. Day highs will be in the high 60s and lows will drop into the 30 or 40s. So pack layers—you will need them!
Each day was packed with sights to see and most of those included a 1-2 hour car ride. We would spend time in the City of Cusco and in the outlying areas. It was all a plan to show us around while we got used to the altitude. Each day was a good balance of tourism and down time and because of the pandemic, crowds were never an issue.
Our week in Peru, day by day
I want to share our itinerary with you but please note this was created by Adventure Life Travel. Depending on when you go, how long you stay and where you travel to and from, before and after Peru, may affect your plans. The intention is to give you an idea of all you can pack into a one week trip if that’s all the time you have.
Once arriving in Cusco, our days looked like this (I don’t count Lima b/c we were just at the hotel!)
Day 1: Cusco
Upon arrival at the airport, we were greeted by our guide and dropped off at the hotel. After leaving bags and a quick change of clothes and grabbing a quick lunch on our own (at Avocado, which we loved), we headed out to explore the city. Points of interest on this day included visiting the Ruins of Sacsayhuamán, Templo de la Sagrada Familia and exploring Incan ruins around the city. There was also much history shared about how the Spanish built on top of the ruins after they invaded and took over Cusco. We spent about 4 hours together and then separated for dinner.
Before going back to the hotel, we made a quick stop in the center of town at Cappuccino for a quick snack. One of my favorite things to do when travel is to find local coffee shops. This one did not disappoint—service, views, coffee and food were all on point!
We ate at Moreno for dinner. Beautiful ambience, fun cocktails and Peruvian cuisine. Service was very good.
The next day we were heading towards Machu Picchu which meant packing small bags to take with us and leaving our bigger bags behind. The train to Machu Picchu has strict weight requirements for all luggage.
Day 2: The scenic route to Sacred Valley
This day started our exploration beyond the city streets where we worked our way towards the Sacred Valley, taking the scenic route. Before getting started on our drive, we made a quick stop at a local textile shop where we learned the art and history of the gorgeous and colorful textiles created by Peruvian women. We also got to visit some animals like the Alpaca and Vicuna that so generously supply their fur to make the warm and beautiful blankets, clothing and accessories.
We all bought items that day. My advice bring extra cash for this stop, be prepared to bargain and know they have a hard-sell, tourism dollars are what help them survive.
After the shop and thanks to our personal driver (arranged by ALT) we drove out to Moray, an Inca agricultural terrace “once thought to have been a nursery to experiment with and modify different varieties of crops” (source: Adventure Life Travel). The science, wisdom and foresight that the Incans had when it came to understanding their environment is truly captivating. Though there are only ruins left, you truly get the sense of what they were able to accomplish with so few resources. Not to mention, the sites they built were so impressive in size and structure.
After Moray, we went over the to Salt Mines in Maras. They were still in operation and truly a unique experience. I think in the US we take salt for granted and the process by which they create salt was beyond my imagination. It’s a slow and involved process but very interesting to witness. Our stop there lasted about an hour and we made a quick stop at the shop on site. We still use the salt we got that day but warning, it’s a lot stronger than our typical table salt so a little goes a long way!
After Moray, we headed to the Sacred Valley. We stopped for lunch at Muna Restaurant and drove through the villages of the Valley. It was incredible to be surrounded by mountains and see how an entire village was developed in this remote area.
We landed at our beautiful hotel, Pakaritampu where we were able to settle in and enjoy the lush grounds. We had dinner at the hotel and rested after a long day of travel and sight-seeing.
Day 3: Exploring the Sacred Valley and Ollaytaytambo
On this day, we had a full day of exploring the Valley. Our first stop and probably one of my favorites was Ollantayambo, a living Inca City surrounded by Inca Ruins. This area was where the final battle between the Incas and the Spanish occurred. From this village, the Inca retreated to the mountains above but were eventually taken over by the Spaniards. There is so much fascinating architecture and history in this area.
I’ll be the first to admit, ruins, forts and history usually bore me to tears but the stories of the Incan Civilization and witnessing all they created with their bare hands had me captivated the entire trip. I was so grateful to be able to learn more about them and see these sites with my own eyes.
We made our way to a market area known for it’s silver production and more local textiles. There we walked around, shopped and bought some silver items.
We even made a pit stop along the road so my husband could try Cuy (roasted Guinea Pig) for the first time. We were also treated to lunch at a quaint hotel and restaurant in the Valley. On our way back to the hotel, since we were alone, we stopped at a local brewery, Cerveceria del Valle Sagrado, per request of my husband. We highly recommend stopping, the beer is great and the grounds are nestled in the mountains so it’s the perfect place to sip a beer while soaking in some sun.
For dinner, with our guide, we made the quick walk over the town of Ollantayambo for local pizza at a restaurant called Quinoa. Wood fire pizza of all varieties.
Day 4: Machu Picchu Bound
Off to Machu Picchu we go! I will say this was probably my favorite day because of the train ride to the Village of Machu Picchu. Magical is the only way to describe it. You jump on board the PeruRail to be whisked through the valley surrounded by farm land, the peaks of the Andes, alongside the river and by waterfalls, through the jungle and passing by more Incan ruins. There was beauty at every turn. Along the way, there are recordings of what you are seeing but not so much that it’s disruptive. A perfect balance of information and a chance just to take in all the views on your own. Bring your AirPods and enjoy a little peace and quiet. The ride takes about 1.5 hours and you’ll wish it was longer.
If time allows before you board (you can’t take food on board), stop in Cafe Mayu for a perfect cup of coffee and homemade chocolate chip cookies. At this point on our trip, we were starting to crave some food from home and these cookies hit the spot! So good.
Once we arrived in the Village, we were greeted by porters from our hotel who took our bags to the lobby so we could start our adventure to Macchu Picchu.
First we stopped in the Village for lunch at Mapacho for burgers and more. This was probably our favorite restaurant in town and we regretted not going back the next day.
Next we boarded our bus for Machu Picchu. While it’s absolutely worth it but consider this your warning; the trip to the Incan Ruins is a 30 minute bus ride up the side of the mountain with 13 sharp switchbacks on a one-way road. It’s an adventure in itself but I will share that I am not a fan of heights, curvy roads, and in general bus rides and I survived this ride 4 times. If I can do it, you most certainly can too. I will also state that the drivers are experts, it’s all they do and never once did I feel unsafe.
Boarding the bus is a process. You will need your passport, tickets (your guide should have those), a mask and shield. Peru required a face shield on all forms of public transportation. Be sure to ask for a Machu Picchu passport stamp as a souvenir.
Once arriving at the top, you will see a vision that is absolutely beyond words. There is no way to describe it but what I will share is if you are reading this in 2021 and are considering a trip to Peru and Machu Picchu, I recommend booking it. Yes, there are some safety precautions that are a bit inconvenient but the minimal crowds make it worth it!
Normally, there are up to 9000 people a day visiting the Inca Ruins. While we were there, at it’s busiest (morning visits) there were many 400 and on our first afternoon, there were about 40 people. It was as if we had the entire place to ourselves.
It is common that you get two visits to the famous archeological site when you go. Typically an afternoon visit and then a morning visit. It’s definitely more crowed in the morning and will take a few bus runs before it’s your turn to board. Each visit is timed and you will have two hours during your stay.
Security is pretty tight, they move you along and don’t allow you to stay in one spot for an extended period of time. They are strict with masks (even though you are outdoors) and are watching you to be sure you don’t touch anything you are not supposed to. When you are there, you get it—they are fiercely protecting this area so it can remain persevered for generations to come.
After our visit, we went to our hotel (Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel). A beautiful hotel nestled in the lush greenery of the lands. I wish we could have stayed more than 1 night.
We enjoyed the complimentary cocktails before meeting our guide (she stayed at a different hotel) and heading to dinner at Full House.
Day 5: Our final and full day in Machu Picchu
After breakfast in the hotel, we went back to the bus line to revisit the ruins. As I mentioned, the lines were much longer this time so it took about 5 busses to pass by before we could board. We went back up to walk the grounds again, seeing some new spots and learned more about the history. The morning light gave us new views and a new appreciation for the vastness of this Incan creation.
After our time up top, we went to the Museum at the base. Quick fact: if you have two-day passes like ours, the museum entry is free. It opens at noon and is worth a quick stop if you want to see some archaeological finds and read more about the history of the land and all that Hiram Bingham did to discover and preserve it for all the generations beyond him.
This was a long day because after our second tour we went back to the village for lunch at Chef House (I sadly cannot recommend this place) and then boarded our train back to Ollyantaytambo where we met our driver to go back to Cusco. We spent hours riding and driving and the route our driver took back to Cusco was rough!! The Peruvian roads were in ruins themselves and it was bumpy, windy and in some spots slowed by village traffic. The van ride took about 2.5 hours and we were exhausted by the end.
We grabbed a quick bite at a local coffee shop that night. We were too tired for a full meal.
Day 6: Our final full day in Cusco
The next day was our final day in Cusco and if I’m to be honest, we were close to being done. While we really enjoyed all our time, we were growing weary of being on the go so much.
Sunday was Father’s day and it is considered a legal holiday in Peru. Everything was shut down, locals were told to stay home because of the pandemic and only tourists were allowed out. Many locals didn’t follow the rules so local police were constantly breaking up crowds. It was an odd situation and in the end, as tourists, we were not given any exception to the requests. They wouldn’t even allow us to take a picture in the square.
We did walk up to a scenic spot in town to see views of the city valley. As in this entire trip, I strongly suggest comfortable walking shoes like sneakers but especially in Cusco. Roads are mostly uneven cobblestone, steep and there are so many stairs!
We did make a quick stop at Fuego for lunch and really enjoyed it. We were the only ones in there but they made us feel at home. They were busy with takeout/delivery orders for all the locals stuck at home.
We walked around town as much as we could taking the day slowly to rest a bit.
Day 7: Lima bound, one step closer to home
Our final day in Cusco before starting the process home. We were not scheduled to meet our guide until later in the afternoon so we went to the only Irish pub in Cusco, Paddy’s Irish Pub (the highest 100% Irish Owned Pub in the world) for a quick lunch. My husband got his Guinness and the food was pretty good! Perfect for kids; pizza, quesadillas and other finger foods.
Our guide met us at the hotel and we were back to the airport to head to Lima. She helped us navigate the first part of security and then we said our goodbyes. We are truly grateful for all she shared of her beautiful home land.
Helpful tips to know before you go:
Tipping Customs in Peru:
As you can imagine, the tips the guides receive from tourists are a lifeline especially in these trying times. It is commonly suggested that you give your guide (at the end of your trip) $15-20 per traveler per day) and your driver (at the end of each day b/c they do change) $5 per traveler. As with all tipping, the final amount is your call but I would just encourage you to give generously. As you will see if you visit, the locals are in desperate need of tourism dollars to survive. They work hard, are gracious and welcoming and currently many remain without work.
Quick packing tips:
Weather: If you love mild Fall days (and who doesn’t) you will love the weather in Peru during peak season but layers are a must. Morning and nights are cool and days can warm up to where a light long-sleeve layer is enough.
The sun is bright so sunglasses, hats and sunscreen are encouraged and layers that whisk sweat and reflect wind are suggested. Be sure to pack comfortable clothes for the long days of travel. Dressing up was never necessary at any of our stops or restaurants. Most places and dress codes are very casual in Peru.
You will want your camera for every stop you visit and your guide will always be willing to take pictures of you and your family. Never before have I been on a trip where we got so many family pictures. Usually I’m stuck behind the camera and I have an album full of the three of them. Can you relate?
We felt very safe in Peru at all times. Always keep your personal items close to you and cash close at hand but we truly had no issues.
Adjusting to the altitude takes time. As I mentioned earlier, here is the link to that blog post. It contains a few tips and tricks we learned along the way.
Questions?
If you have questions about traveling to Peru, drop them below, I’m happy to share what we learned to help others. I truly wish we had more time to experience the vast landscape and rich culture of Peru. It was an incredible experience with kind people, delicious food and endless sites to see.
Celebrate culture, Explore Peru!
It’s very common to extend a trip to South America and visit Ecuador too. If that’s something you are considering, be sure to read my blog post about traveling to Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands.